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With so many chicken joints in town, you’d imagine a newcomer would do enough homework to get it right. Alas, that’s not the case with Chickens & Foxes, a small Nando’s-style restaurant near Baker Street station that’s attempting to do the whole healthy, free-range, rotisserie chicken thing with an interesting-sounding range of sides – roast potatoes and basmati rice among them. Sadly, it’s all in vain. A hot and spicy quarter chicken barely lives up to its name, and a soggy quinoa salad with aubergine and bell peppers is salvaged only by being run through with a nice bit of dill. As for those roasties – they might be fluffy in the middle, but you could break a fork attempting to crack through them.
What Chickens & Foxes lacks in quality food, it surprisingly makes up for (well, a bit) with gorgeous, modern interiors, friendly-enough service, and cheap and cheerful prices. That quarter chicken with sides was only around £12. If it could just live up to its basic potential, it might become something better than this: a workaday fast-food joint seriously lacking oomph.