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In a word: elegant! Or at least, as elegant as a Korean BBQ opposite the Coach and Horses on Greek Street can be.
Chungdam’s aesthetic (minimal, white, clean) veers dangerously close to cold and clinical, but is rescued by a hot, bubbly vibe and avuncular staff. And - crucially - its food.
The grill, operated by buttons at the side of the table, is the star attraction here. Our preternaturally handsome waiter came and went, checking it with his hand throughout, like a doting parent worrying over a sick child. Curled wafers of beef brisket, a marinated blanket of short rib and, best of all, a prime slab of rib eye were brought out, prepped and then sent into action. Each piece of meat was seared, fussed over, trimmed, flipped and lovingly squished. Everything is served with its own punchy dipping sauce. Nothing disappoints.
Each piece of meat was seared, fussed over, trimmed, flipped and lovingly squished
Away from the grill, things were equally compelling. Energetically spiced kimchi jousted with lovely pickles for our affections early on. The seafood pancakes, served nice and hot, were chunky and flavoursome yet not too heavy. And you know how cold glass noodles, mixed with mushrooms and (yet more) beef is the sort of dish that might, in slap-dash hands, devolve into a flavourless, slippery puddle of slime? That doesn’t happen at all here.
Chungdam is a great night. It’s a shame the decor isn’t quite comfortable in its own skin. Too pokey to be flash, too refined to be fun, the room ends up in Vibes Purgatory, like when grand old hotels get ‘boutique-y’ makeovers, or in the 1980s when prog bands started playing unconvincing pop music. Luckily, the quality of its food is undeniable.
The vibe A nice white room! A bit like the music video for Michael and Janet Jackson’s hit single ‘Scream’. But with more sizzling meat.
The food Fun, tasty small plates, (featuring a lot of beef) and BBQ crowd-pleasing mains (also featuring a lot of beef). Luckily the beef is really tasty.
The drink We thoroughly enjoyed our soju cocktails. Strong and milky, like the wrestler Brock Lesnar.
Time Out tip There’s a private karaoke bar downstairs. Korean BBQ and karaoke is a proven, age-old combination, like gin and juice, denim and leather or driving holidays and bitter, marriage-ending rows.