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Time Out says

Please note, Cigala has now closed. Time Out Food editors, October 2019

We’d gladly revisit Cigala for its unusual by-the-glass sherries and its heavenly salt cod; our most recent visit also saw a sublimely nubbly almond and medlar tart. Set on a lively street corner, it’s a light, modern sort of place, with big windows, whitewashed walls, and pavement tables on warm days.

On a weekday lunchtime, the room was more than half empty – just a few elderly diners and local businessmen – but the sizzle of oil and sound of Spanish coming from the kitchen were enough to whet our appetites. Cigala’s owner/chef Jake Hodges (also a co-founder of Moro) has scoured Spain for its best dishes and added a little élan of his own. The cooking can be slapdash – our grilled cuttlefish was partly raw – but slip-ups are rare.

A smoky, splendidly macho pork chop was vibrant with lemon and rosemary, and accompanied by crisp, liberally salted fries. Rabbit and pigeon terrine was punchily meaty and came with pickled carrots, a pleasing departure from the Spanish veg-phobic norm. Our León-born waiter took some warming up, but his gruff manner was nothing if not authentic.


54 Lamb's Conduit Street
Tube: Holborn or Russell Square
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