Cigalon

Restaurants, French Holborn
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • 5 out of 5 stars
(2user reviews)
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Cigalon

There’s something anomalous about this attractive, lavender-hued Provençal specialist tucked in among lawyers’ offices. Under the skylight and among the potted olive trees, the discreet curved banquettes offer the impression of sitting in a Mediterranean courtyard – a welcome respite for legal eagles. Incongruity sometimes extends to the food as well. There’s no doubting the culinary skills or authenticity of ingredients, but occasionally what should have been delightful is instead intriguing but frustratingly just wide of the mark. Perhaps that’s the problem with novelty-seeking contemporary French cooking, and certainly all the olives and basil you could wish for are here.

After a terrific tapenade, black olives appeared in bread, in a so-called confit of salmon (floating damply in a soupy lettuce velouté), and again with lambs’ tongues, tiny potatoes and watercress. Beautifully cooked guineafowl was served with a drab-looking peach salsa and panisse (hefty chickpea chips), while the thrill of finding lamb’s tongues was mitigated by the delicate flavour being swamped by dressing. Sea bass with perfectly crisp skin matched with tomatoes in different stages of cooked – from raw to confit – was more like it. Sadly, puddings rather misfired again. Tea and blood peach pot was a beige cream with pink purée on top; blackberry île flottante was a spongey meringue speckled with the out-of-season fruit on an admittedly lovely custard.

 

Posted:

Venue name: Cigalon
Contact:
Address: 115 Chancery Lane
London
WC2A 1PP
Opening hours: Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6-9.45pm Mon-Fri
Transport: Tube: Chancery Lane or Temple
Price: Main courses £12.50-£21. Set meal £19.50 2 courses, £24.50 3 courses
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Average User Rating

5 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:2
  • 4 star:0
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|2
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Daniel L
Tastemaker

This has to be one of the most underrated restaurants in London. The set dinners are extremely affordable with decent choice, and the quality of food is top notch. Definitely deserves a bib gourmand in my book. The setting makes you feel like you are dining in a greenhouse. The service staff are excellent and extremely attentive. They are also very knowledgeable about the menu which helps a great deal. Menus tend to change every month or two but you can guarantee that their amazing bread basket with to die for olive spread is going to be a constant!

Julien

A quick restaurant : nice staff, superb ambience and on top of it nice food !