Claw - CLOSED (CLOSED)
Time Out says
Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.
Please note, Claw has now closed. However, it is set to open a new branch on a smaller site at Seven Dials Market. Time Out Food editors, September 2019.
‘Anything you recommend?’, I asked our waitress, looking at her smiley, wanting-to-be-helpful face. ‘Oh, the chicken wings. They’re my favourite.’ This was at Claw, which as you’ve probably guessed made its name serving crustaceans. Specifically, crab (it’s even the logo).
I politely pretended I hadn’t heard her, then went for more of a seafoody order. There was crab mac ’n’ cheese, which was pretty stingy on the crab meat, but otherwise brilliant: cheesy, tangy and moreish. On the flipside, the crab roll had plenty of chilled meat, all stuffed into a rich brioche bun, but was a tad bland. My tip? Order them together: as a team, they really work. Grilled tenderstem broccoli was genuinely great: crunchy and lemony with a sprinkle of crispy seaweed. The unexpected star of the night? A blueberry cheesecake ice-cream roll, Claw’s twist on an ice-cream sandwich. Picture a slab of ricotta ice cream and jammy blueberry compote wedged into a brioche bun, plus sour toffee sauce and salty flakes of hard cheese. So good.
Sadly, there were plenty of slip-ups too. When I eventually buckled and ordered the wings, they turned out to be syrupy and bland. A fennel salad was underdressed, while the soft-shell KFC (Korean fried crab) had been clobbered by raw spices.
Claw is a good-looking joint, if in a slightly unoriginal way: open kitchen, concrete floors, exposed bricks and warehouse lamps. Order very carefully and you can still have a decent time.
21 Kingly St
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