‘Healthy chicken’ doesn’t exactly have a finger-licking ring to it, but that’s not a problem for Cocotte, which proudly brands itself as a healthy rotisserie. Consider it more like a Nando’s for the clean-living: a small and modern dining room serving roast chicken on wooden boards (£7 a quarter, £12 a half). Then there are seven homemade sauces, simple sides and pretty salads made with superfoods such as quinoa.
So far, so splendid. But on a busy mid-week evening, you’d never guess this bird is dunked in a secret sauce for 24 hours. The quarter I ordered was stiff and bland, while a forgettable truffle mac and cheese (£6) was missing the unmistakable gooeyness of a mac that means business.
On the other hand, the ‘raymonde’ (£6) – a tasty melee of quinoa, cherry tomatoes and bulgur – lived up to expectations. If you’re flying the gluten-free flag, order the chocolate cake: technically a strong, solid brownie, it was thick and fudgy. At least you don’t have to pay top dollar for such well-meaning grub; just hope to swing by on a good day.