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Comptoir Gourmand

  • Restaurants
  • Bermondsey
  • price 1 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
    Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
  2. Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
    Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
  3. Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
    Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
  4. Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
    Courtesy of Comptoir Gourmand
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Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

A family-run French patisserie in Bermondsey.

Snuggled among the dining finery of Bermondsey Street, this bakery is the fourth joint of the family-run Comptoir Gourmand. Inside, it’s a shrine to dough – insanely good-looking baked things are enticingly laid out, surrounded by rustic wooden decor.

A croque monsieur came with satisfying griddle marks on the emmental, the creaminess of the cheese teaming up with the salty ham. The ficelle – a thin baguette – was so admirably fine it looked almost wand-like and the filling was ingenious: gooey mozzarella with walnuts, basil, garlic and olive oil. Then, a savoury pain aux poivrons – it looked like a raisin swirl – was a sleeper hit. Simple, sure, but it turns out that weaving bits of red pepper into the spirals of buttery pastry gives off a lovely, refined sweetness.

On to the treats. Say bye to the cronut – this place is all about the newer, sexier ‘brionut’ (a brioche-doughnut). The apple and cinnamon one was a delight: light, sticky and slightly spicy. Next, a pear danish was spot-on, while the lemon tart was lip-smacking – a perfect circle of crisp pastry beneath a cylinder of citrussy custard topped with wispy meringue. It was hard to eat something so beautiful.

Still, this bakery is slightly too small. Getting in on a Saturday lunchtime and finding a spot to stand, let alone sit, was kind of like playing the video game Tetris – only it involved humans instead of geometric shapes and, being humans, we were all madly jostling for space. Best to get your food to go, then.

Written by
Ella Braidwood

Details

Address:
96 Bermondsey St
London
SE1 3UB
Transport:
Tube: Borough
Price:
Lunch for two with drinks and service: around £35.
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