Cubé

Are you into pure, unadulterated sashimi? You know, lily ungilded? Then you’re in luck, because the sushi at this small Mayfair joint is so fresh you’re left vaguely wondering if they’ve got a secret underground fish tank. The scallops were light and buttery, the tuna silky and rich, the yellowtail subtle and sweet. The nigiri wasn’t bad either, thanks less to the sushi rice (fine, but nothing special) than the quality of what lay on top, from melt-in-the-mouth salmon with not a shred of surplus fat to moist, glistening, sweet shrimp.

But, given that Cubé’s schtick is what it calls ‘Japanese tapas’ (oh, please), its small plates are maddeningly inconsistent. Lamb chops were beautifully cooked but underseasoned; mixed tempura had top-notch ingredients at its heart but an oily batter; chicken tsukune (meatballs) had a good flavour but were a little dry.

Even more baffling was the service: on the evening, staff couldn’t have been more helpful. But whoever phoned to re-confirm our booking was rude and demanding. Still, if you’re out shopping – it’s off the Oxford Street end of New Bond Street – and are gasping for sashimi, Cubé is a handy spot.