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The first rule of tackling a Cutter & Squidge ‘Biskie’: abandon cutlery, and your pride. As I realised after trying and failing to hack through two layers of cookie and a large marshmallow with a fork. Go straight for the mouth and hope for the best.
The Biskie, a three-way cross between a biscuit, cookie and cake, is this Soho patisserie’s much-hyped invention. (One publication squealed: ‘Is this the death of the Cronut?’) The ‘Choc O’Berry S’more’ is a winner – vanilla-flavoured marshmallow sandwiched between two layers of buttercream, in turn sandwiched between chewy cookies. Pick one up to go or take a seat in the minimalist café-shop, which is the bakery’s first permanent location – until recently, the outfit has been operating from a small kitchen in north-west London.
Cakes are an instagrammer’s dream, coming in an eye-popping range of colours: from a rose-pink ‘Vanilla in Bloom’ to a bright yellow ‘Lemon Sherbet’. Despite the rainbow palette, Cutter & Squidge prides itself on using only fruit and vegetable dyes.
A humongous wedge of ‘OMG It’s Green!’ cake, a sponge with green tea, white chocolate and raspberry jam, was light as a feather and not too sweet. From the drinks list, try ‘Relax’ iced tea with coconut milk, pineapple juice, lime and jasmine.
Cutter & Squidge isn’t cheap, with Biskies starting from £4.20 each. But you get what you pay for, and in this case it’s high-quality bakes with no nasties. We’ll be making a return visit, if only to master the art of eating a Biskie with dignity.