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There’s no doubting the charms of this family-run, Greek-Cypriot restaurant. Its three-floor layout takes in a cosy ground floor that’s all floral-patterned booths and black and white photos of Cypriot village life. The first floor conjures up an authentic Mediterranean feel with its uneven whitewashed walls and tiled floors. Metal baskets of flowers that line the small, top-floor roof terrace (seating 20) help create a lovely summer spot for relaxed, atmospheric alfresco eating.
Despite bucking the trend to serve gargantuan portions among the capital’s Hellenic restaurants – many of Daphne’s meals require the additional purchase of a side dish – this isn’t always a case of quality over quantity. Three mini koubes (deep-fried wheat parcels stuffed with minced lamb) were crisp and aromatic, but a parsley-speckled portion of lounza ham was tough and dry, a grease-slicked spanakópitta sat in a puddle of oil, and both a portion of grilled fish skewers and lamb souvláki lacked the dishes’ requisite smokiness.
Service is nonetheless charming, with the bubbly, matronly restaurateur regularly rattling off quips about her homeland while taking customers through the menu.
83 Bayham Street
|Transport:||Tube: Camden Town or Mornington Crescent tube|
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