All things to all people at all hours – whatever the Soho occasion, chances are Dean Street Townhouse fits the bill. A leisurely breakfast, elevenses with the morning papers, a brisk business lunch, afternoon tea, pre-theatre quickie, romantic dinner for two… and if that dinner gets uncontrollably romantic, there are rooms upstairs. As a result of this catch-all appeal, DST is buzzing from open until close, and efficient but sometimes distant staff keep things moving along briskly.
The all-inclusiveness extends to the menu, which rarely startles, but cossets and comforts with classic British dishes (there’s a great fish and chips with mushy peas, as well as cauliflower and Keen’s cheddar soup, and liver with bacon and onions). Special note must be given to the other Scottish national dish perpetually on the carte: mince and tatties. Paw Broon might splutter into his tea cup at the £13.50 price tag, but it’s as good a version as anyone south of Gretna has ever made.
DST is spread across a series of Georgian-era rooms, which exude a sense of history while wearing lightly their classical upgrade: the only irritation being the too-low chairs in the side room, which force diners into sitting uncomfortably.