As a food lovers’ destination, Docklands is no Marylebone Village; and, like the majority of eateries in the area, this outfit is additionally hampered by a corporate, new-built vibe. The location has its pluses (by the water, near ExCeL) and minuses (in a hotel, near ExCeL), but sweet staff help overcome the rather soulless atmosphere created by the presence of solo business diners. The kitchen, too, tries hard to do good things, emphasising fresh fish from nearby Billingsgate Market, sourcing fruit and veg (some organic) from farms in the home counties, and bread from Sally Clarke’s prestigious bakery. In its fish pie – made with scallops, cod and prawns, then served in a Le Creuset stoneware pot that puts the emphasis on sauce and seafood rather than mashed potato – the restaurant has a delectable treat to rival the best in the West End. We also had a generously portioned starter salad with tender strips of spicily juicy ‘Asian chilli’ beef, and great chips – a special of roast turbot tempted, too. But other dishes were not so impressive, most notably the burger, which despite some Berkswell cheese and tasty onion compote, suffered from insipid tomato and a bland meat patty (a surprise given they use Aubrey Allen, a well-established butcher with a stellar client list). Most of the brief, international wine list is available in a choice of four sizes – glass, carafe and bottle. For a business lunch or large family meal, this place will do nicely, but even with water views and a luxurious fish pie, you should not visit expecting romance.
