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Duke of Sussex

  • Bars and pubs
  • Chiswick
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
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Tricia de Courcy LingDuke of Sussex
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Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

Overlooking Acton Green and with a substantial beer garden at the rear, the Duke of Sussex is a handsome 1890s Victorian boozer that was given a thorough gastrofication in 2007. Now owned by its then operators Real Pubs, it has lasted well.

The pub side is lively and serves good beer (including Dark Star’s smokily sweet-bitter Art of Darkness and Triple fff’s Rock Lobster), but it’s the beautiful restaurant room that really stands out, almost the whole ceiling forming a giant ‘skylight’ – with cherubs to acknowledge its loftiness. The menu majors in Spanish cuisine, with a good range of tapas and more substantial dishes, usually with twists on the familiar – such as the quince aïoli that accompanied a pork chop, which had a properly unctuous thick fat layer and came with garlicky sliced potatoes ‘a lo pobre’.

Other highlights were the cheeseboard (manchego, sure, but also a smoky Basque idiazabal and picos de europa blue), coming with a Kilner jar of crackers and membrillo. The menu also has some non-Spanish pub favourites – rib of beef and chips, pies, black pudding hash cake under an egg – but there seems little point in wandering far from the Iberian peninsula.

Details

Address:
75 South Parade
London
W4 5LF
Transport:
Tube: Chiswick Park
Price:
Main courses £11-£17.50
Opening hours:
Open noon-11pm Mon-Thur, Sun; noon-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Meals served noon-10.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-9.30pm Sun
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