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There are few Chinatown restaurants that give you as quintessential an experience as Dumpling’s Legend. Its menu is almost as long as the Bible, the changeover of guests are often greeted with blunt service, and if you’re sitting in one of the middle tables, the surrounding din is close to deafening.
But it’s all part of the experience, and a unique chance to try so many regional Chinese flavours rolled into one kitchen. Owner Geoffrey Leong, who also runs nearby Leong’s Legend which specialises in Taiwanese cuisine, has created an extensive menu that celebrates dishes from Dongbei, Guizhou, Manchuria, Sichuan, Xinjiang and, of course, Cantonese, the most prevalent cuisine in Chinatown, all under one roof.
Perhaps controversially, I’d skip dumplings and dim sum and instead opt for the more flavoursome sharing dishes. The stand-out is egg tofu with enoki and mushrooms, which is stewed in a lightly umami sauce. For spice lovers, try the Sichuanese classic of whole sea bass with mixed chillies, lotus root and potatoes.