Earlham Street Clubhouse (CLOSED)
Time Out says
Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.
Please note, Earlham Street Clubhouse is now closed. Time Out Food & Drink Editors, January 2017.
Don’t worry, it’s not an actual clubhouse – women are permitted in the main bar and you may wear shorts. If it was any sort of house, it would be a frat house, or ‘Animal House’, or maybe ‘Road House’ – the walls of this basement bar and pizzeria are covered in vintage American beer adverts and road signs, and there’s a classic Wurlitzer jukebox in one corner.
The cocktails would get any bunch of Delta Tau Chi boys merry. They reference US cultural benchmarks from the last 30 years: the Axel Foley has tequila, lime and sparkling grapefruit, and the Cruel Intentions comes with coconut vodka and tropical fruit juices. The pizzas sound like a ‘most-requested’ list in a ’90s video store – the Ferris Bueller, the Dawson’s Creek, the Screech. And they’re good; not Napoli-authentic like the sort from Franco Manca, but crisp, generously proportioned and loaded, just the thing to go with the good-time drinks.
ESC doesn’t take itself too seriously, but it’s flawlessly professional: it’s refreshing to see a more fun side of American culture represented than the poshed-up fried chicken-and-burgers or Brooklyn small plates that have come to proliferate round these parts.