Time Out says
Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.
Please note, Ergon is now closed. However, the deli on Maddox Street is still open. Time Out Food editors, FEBRUARY 2020.
In Greece, the Ergon chain of deli-restaurants are spacious, airy affairs, with vast communal tables, sumptuous displays of olives and streaming sunshine. This is something that doesn’t quite translate to London – not even this petite prime location next to Selfridges. Put up with the squeeze, though, and there’s lots to like: sleek industrial-chic design, a basement deli full of beautifully packaged Greek artisan products, and a kitchen overseen by Athenian celeb-chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos.
It has been a lightning-fast hit with the capital’s homesick Greeks: there was a full (and almost entirely Hellenic) house for lunch on our visit. There’s an all-Greek wine list, mojitos made with chios mastiha liqueur, and a modern mezédes menu (all of which is designed to be shared) that’ll banish memories of day-glo meze dips forever.
Squid was grilled until perfectly tender, while a dish of fava (yellow split pea) purée topped with cured pork was satisfyingly smooth and smoky. A modern take on the classic saganáki (oat-rolled naxos gravièra cheese with rose petal syrup) looked great but was served far too cold. The flavoursome crunch of a simple Cretan-style barley rusk salad went some way towards making amends.
The Athenian café-culture vibe here lends itself more to an informal lunch or post-splurge evening snack than a long, leisurely dinner, but either way Ergon is another bold step forward for Greek cuisine in the capital.