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Please note, Essence Cuisine has now closed. Time Out Food editors, November 2018.
If you’re looking for an introduction to the raw food ‘movement’, high-end vegan spot Essence Cuisine might seem an intimidating entry point – but look past the iffy new-age branding and focus on what you’re eating. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Aside from some uncomfortable bench seating, the vibe is relaxed considering the uber-minimal, industrial decor. Friendly staff are on hand to guide you through the surprisingly accessible menu.
A nut ‘cheese’ board seemed a good place to begin, with an oaky, sticky ‘cheddar’, a creamy lemon-and-dill number and a tart pear chutney. Apart from the overkill of truffle oil in one cheese, this was a nice little sharing starter.
The highlight of the meal, though, was a green curry. Kelp noodles with sweet, curried cashews and a well-spiced, rich sauce made for a dish full of flavour and texture. This did not feel like a plate of uncooked ingredients – it felt and looked like a professionally prepared meal. And it tasted delicious.
There was also a host of decadent desserts (try the zingy, mousse-like lime cheesecake with sharp cola gel) and good wines (vegan, organic and biodynamic, naturally), proving that eating raw and plant-based doesn’t have to mean dodging fun or flavour. Essence shows that you needn’t be a hardcore health fiend to go raw.