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‘Chicken shop concept’. A more ominous phrase in the English language? Doubtful. Luckily, the remit at Fancy Funkin Chicken seemingly extends only to poultry, waffles and cocktails. Which is less a ‘concept’, more a half-arsed wave at a receding bandwagon. But no matter.
But the old bird’s in luck – the food itself was just fine (as is the chintzed-up diner decor). ‘Funkin’ hot wings’ were especially good: slathered in a honkingly sweet/savoury and unctuous sauce, they were diddy things but excellently cooked and deceptively – scalp-swelteringly – fiery. I could have done with something cool and creamy to temper the heat, but made do with a side of silken mac ’n’ cheese. I’d return for that alone.
Corn fritters were delicious, if a little soggy – either underdone or over-heavy on the oil. The tropical burger was better: a decent portion of greaseless, crumb-coated fried chicken offset by a hunk of charred pineapple and a slick of smoked chilli mayo. Despite the threat of in-house DJs on weekends, there’s enough going for FFC to stand out in a postcode crammed with similar spots. Come for the food – just leave the funkin’ concepts out of it.