If Jay Gatsby had fled West Egg for the beaches of Bali, his new home would probably look a lot like this west London health food spot. Farmacy (as in health from the farm, geddit?) is free from most things – dairy, refined sugars, meat, additives and chemical nasties – though happily, not taste. In fact, it’s packed with all kinds of taste, from the food coming out of the kitchen to the ultra-sleek décor. Despite being a vegan-friendly restaurant there is a reassuring lack of hemp, and pretty bamboo is tempered with beautiful brushed gold. It’s smart, to be sure, but the atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are friendly.
Farmacy boasts ‘clean indulgence’, which means that the menu has lots of naughty-sounding but actually super-healthy things to choose from. The mushroom tagliatelle, made with spelt flour, has a good bite to it and the truffle sauce is rich and earthy without being sickly. Their eponymous burger has a nice, nutty texture. Loaded with avocado pickle, it's bicep-curlingly meaty despite being vegan, while the accompanying chips prove that you don’t need animal fat to fry a delicious potato.
A good vegan dessert is harder to come by than the 347 bus, and the brownie sundae here doesn’t cut it either. Instead, order the brilliantly zingy lemon cheesecake; light and creamy but with the kind of biscuit base Gregg Wallace would appreciate.
All-in-all, it’s a crowd-pleasingly delicious spot – go with a group and make sure to invite that one picky friend who’s currently cutting something out of their diet.