Small and friendly, with a bustling, comfortable atmosphere and the understated look of a French bistro, Fifty Six is a solid neighbourhood restaurant slap bang in the centre of Newington Green. It’s as popular with chattering groups as it is with lone customers popping in for a solitary snack; service is friendly and the food impressively reliable. For starters, asparagus arrived on a dainty polenta cake accompanied by a zingy salsa, while a breadcrumb-coated potato and leek parcel was pleasingly light and fluffy. The delicate notes of artichoke were somewhat lost amid the more powerful flavours of a cheesy spinach cannelloni main, but the dish was satisfyingly creamy and tasty – and an enormous portion. The wine list is good value, another bonus. Our only quibble was the rash of costly side dishes on an otherwise affordable menu.