From Bermondsey Street, passers-by are lured into this pasta specialist by an enticing window showcasing trays of handmade ravioli. And sure enough, the pasta turns out to be exemplary. The menu consists of just eight dishes, each carefully paired with wine. Every pasta is nicely al dente and it’s all affordable – the priciest main was £10.50.
A plate of reginette was thick with prosciutto, peas, and minuscule bits of mint. But the creamy saltiness from the prosciutto and parmesan was offset beautifully by the freshness of the peas and zesty mint, making it light and delicate.
The spaghetti – a twist of hay-coloured strands – had been dotted with glistening, juicy mussels, cut through with garlic and white wine.
Starters were proof that dishes don’t have to be complicated to impress. The bruschetta with freshly chopped tomatoes, practically bathed in olive oil, was delicious – a thwack of basil pesto added welcome tanginess.
Flour & Grape has a couple of flaws, though. In typical London style, it doesn’t take bookings, just walk-ins (even on a Wednesday night there was a half-hour wait), and the restaurant limits guests to a strict 90-minute slot per table.
But you can see why people are queueing: Flour & Grape stands out in a sea of pasta purveyors. Every element of every dish has been carefully thought through. It’s class.