The King’s Cross area is scrubbing up nicely – so nicely that you need to look hard to find a discarded cardboard cup of builder’s tea. With the opening of this little outpost of a royalty-endorsed tea room inside St Pancras station, the gentrification is being buffed to a shine. Signature loose leaf teas, posh preserves and hamper goodies make a fetching display in the international terminal’s gift shop, while the café – a crown jewel of refined light bites – is the perfect setting in which to put the world to rights over the clink of fine china.
The all-day menu offers more promise of Anglo-French collaboration than the EU, with dishes including crumpets, coq au vin and fish pie. The ‘catch of the day’ was a big helping of coarsely flaked Dorset crabmeat cloaked in lemony mayonnaise, piled high over crisp lettuce and toast – a first-rate English seaside special. In contrast, our scotch egg contained overcooked egg and underseasoned sausagemeat, and was better suited to Nigel Farage’s school lunchbox than a dainty salon’s plate. Tally ho, though, for its accompaniment of sweetly spiced and lightly curried coronation mayonnaise.
The afternoon tea, although pricey, is a classic celebration, comprising warm scones, clotted cream, Victoria sponge and a brilliant range of pastries and renowned teas. Alongside the famed F&M blends are single-estate brews. A second-flush Jungpana Darjeeling transported us from the concourse of St Pancras to the parsley-green cricket pitches of the shires. Jungpana’s a fabulous tea from a tiny Indian estate, and the floral flavour makes a jolly good match with cucumber sandwiches. If Farage and Clegg were to have their in-out debates over a pot of this stuff, we’d undoubtedly have the European question agreed before second pour.
|Venue name:||Fortnum & Mason Tea Salon|
St Pancras International Station
|Opening hours:||Open 7am-9pm Mon-Sat; 8am-9pm Sun|
|Transport:||Tube/Rail: King's Cross|
|Price:||Meal for two with drinks and service: around £70.|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
2 / 5
- 5 star:0
- 4 star:0
- 3 star:1
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:1
Very nice. Very expensive. I would have to say though, that nothing was extraordinary. Everything was nicely done, and presented nicely. Nothing bad, but nothing wonderful either. Service is great, the room is a bit corporate. The tea sandwiches are lovely, but again nothing that made me have to come back anytime soon. The teas are nice as well. It is worth a visit, but I don't think I will be back. I want to be wowed if I am paying this much for afternoon tea.
Snap up exclusive discounts in London
Time Out's handpicked deals — hurry, they won't be around for long...