Roast meats in large portions make this Chinatown veteran a destination.
Famed for their Cantonese-style roast duck, this modest restaurant displays barbecued meats – pork ribs, pork belly and whole ducks – in the window facing busy Wardour Street. Curious passersby stop and stare; drooling is acceptable.
Of the two Four Seasons in Chinatown, this branch has the friendlier service. On our most recent visit (one of many), the roast duck was slightly disappointing; the duck happened to be a greedy one with a too thick layer of fat, and the skin was almost chewy as a result of being overly drenched with the accompanying sauce. Better was the crispy pork belly – a tri-layer of perfectly crisp skin, melt-in-your-mouth fatty middle and juicy lean meat. Fujian fried rice was fragrant with a generous topping of savoury seafood and meaty titbits, but like the beef ho fun, was a little heavy-handed on the seasoning.
If you’re overwhelmed by the vast choice of dishes – hundreds on the regular menu, dozens more on the ’chef’s special’ menu with non-Cantonese dishes – the set meals are simple but good value. Open until 4am daily, Four Seasons is a decent restaurant for a late night meal in central London that wouldn't burn a hole in your pocket.
by Christine Yeo
Discover more great places to eat in Chinatown
|Venue name:||Four Seasons||Contact:|
23 Wardour Street
|Opening hours:||Meals served noon-11.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; noon-midnight Fri, Sat|
|Transport:||Tube: Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus|
|Price:||Main courses £8-£30. Set meal £16.50-£23 (minimum 2)|
|Do you own this business?|
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Food and service used to be reasonably good when it was first opened. But in our recent experience, we found the food portion was considerably smaller, and the size of portion of the food was dependent on the size of the group. For example, we ordered some tofu for three of us, but the amount served seemed considerably smaller to a table with a larger group. Further even before we had finished our meal, the bill was chucked on our table in order to hurry us to finish our meal. (I noticed that the bill was chucked on other tables too.) We then refused to pay the optional 12.5% gratuity and the waitress and manager created a scene by shouting at us. We have lived in London for more than ten years and have been to many Chinese restaurants in London, but there was never a worst experience.