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Please note, Fraq's Lobster Shack is now closed. Time Out Food editors, FEBRUARY 2020.
Fraq’s is modelled on New England ‘lobster joints’, but I’m not aware of any of said establishments that make a feature of artfully distressed paintwork: they like paint to be in good nick, as it performs the humble function of protecting wood from the elements.
Nor am I aware of any lobster places in Maine where they play music so loud that the noise level hovers around 90 decibels, as our phone app told us it did on our visit. The Health and Safety Executive states that ‘the level at which employers must provide hearing protection and hearing protection zones is now 85 decibels (daily or weekly average exposure).’
Fraq’s is a small venue, just 34 covers (which makes the effect of the noise all the more unpleasant). And there are no bookings, so if they get busy, prepare for a queue. We didn’t have to wait, and the sweet, smiling staff guided us expertly through the process of ordering at the counter.
It’s possible that they will get busy, because some of the food is good. The lobster roll contained a fair few chunks of the main ingredient, with celery, lettuce and a tangy tartare-like dressing. Better still was the ‘calamari club’, two thick slices of meaty fin, crumbed and accurately fried. Chips were thin and crisp, and the bread on both rolls was a cut above some other recent lobster-based places. To drink, there are wines, spirits and bottled beers.
But I cannot imagine anyone wanting to linger at Fraq’s, unless they turn the noise right down. We were desperate to flee as soon as we’d finished eating; I suppose this might be what they want us to do. Which might be acceptable if we were eating a sandwich in a greasy spoon, but our meal was £30 for two, without drinks.