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Garufa (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Argentinian Highbury

Time Out says

Please note, Garufa has now closed. Time Out Food editors, March 2018

With leafy Highbury Park just down the road, and warm, unfussy decor – plain wood furniture and floor, rugged brick – the stage is set for simple, fruits-of-the-pampas pleasures. Which was what we got. The kitchen is separated from the dining room by a theatre-style red velvet curtain, and the food did its best to put on a show.

Some non-Argentinian starters were available for a while – a quinoa salad, for instance, and tamales de pollo – but lack of interest saw them removed. It’s hard to imagine them competing with the sweetbreads, in any case: these little chunks, served with a tiny morcilla croquette and dressed rocket, were excellent.

The parrillada mixta was, well, mixed. The flavour of two steaks – one a lean rump, the other a more tangled, sinewy ribeye – was just about up to Argentinian standards. But a piece of pork, although tasty, looked terrible – curled at the edge like something you’d get with two veg at a greasy spoon. It sounds like damning with faint praise, but the chips were the stars here: they seemed to have been subjected to multiple fries, and were all the better for it.




Address: 104 Highbury Park
N5 2XE
Transport: Tube: Arsenal
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