Gordon’s was established in its present form in 1890, but the exposed brickwork, flickering candlelight and fixtures and fittings in the low basement vaults make it feel older still.
The wine list hops from the classic regions of France to South America and beyond. There's also an unusual selection of fortified wines drawn directly from casks behind the bar: ports, sherries and Madeiras that fit nicely with the resolutely uncomplicated buffet-style food (pies, salads, cheeseboards) and tapas in the evening.
When the subterranean rooms are crammed, which is often, it can get distinctly warm in the semi-darkness, but a drink or two here remains a classic London experience. And on Sundays there is a traditional roast served with mash, veg, and Yorkshire pudding.