Harlequin

The defining characteristic of this patch of south Chelsea (apart from hordes of Sloanes) is being near the nowhere station of Imperial Wharf and little else. So it’s a lovely surprise to find a restaurant as cracking as Harlequin.

The pedigree is undeniable, though. It’s been opened by Toby Neill (co-founder of Hackney’s underrated Nest) and chef James Erasmus (late of The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms). The monthly, seasonal, five-course set menu – archetypally British in execution but inflected with a few subtle South African notes – was near-faultless.

There was a cheese-and-ale dip with a chunky knot of homemade pretzel: basically a bowlful of addictive, unset rarebit topping. Then a killer little salad of wild mushrooms, bitter wisps of frisée and nobbles of walnut. The breading on a dinky slab of plaice gave a bit of chip-shop texture, cheffily undercut with shredded parsnip and a chowder of bacon and clam. And while a beautiful cut of fallow deer didn’t need the double-sweet hit of beetroot and sloe, the scattering of red endive made for a winningly autumnal plate.

And, finally, there was an orange-and-hazelnut millefeuille, with heroically salty (if over-thick) pastry and quenelle of chocolate ice cream closer to gossamer-light mousse.

At £45 a head for the food it’s objectively a bargain. Even more so given the excellent booze list, highly affable front of house and vibey room, with its irregular central oak table and paintings of ducks. Harlequin’s a brilliantly executed spot. Hell, it might even make south Chelsea a dining destination.