Time Out says
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A seasonal set-menu spot on Wandsworth Bridge Road.
The defining characteristic of this patch of south Chelsea (apart from hordes of Sloanes) is being near the nowhere station of Imperial Wharf and little else. So it’s a lovely surprise to find a restaurant as cracking as Harlequin.
The pedigree is undeniable, though. It’s been opened by Toby Neill (co-founder of Hackney’s underrated Nest) and chef James Erasmus (late of The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms). The monthly, seasonal, five-course set menu – archetypally British in execution but inflected with a few subtle South African notes – was near-faultless.
There was a cheese-and-ale dip with a chunky knot of homemade pretzel: basically a bowlful of addictive, unset rarebit topping. Then a killer little salad of wild mushrooms, bitter wisps of frisée and nobbles of walnut. The breading on a dinky slab of plaice gave a bit of chip-shop texture, cheffily undercut with shredded parsnip and a chowder of bacon and clam. And while a beautiful cut of fallow deer didn’t need the double-sweet hit of beetroot and sloe, the scattering of red endive made for a winningly autumnal plate.
And, finally, there was an orange-and-hazelnut millefeuille, with heroically salty (if over-thick) pastry and quenelle of chocolate ice cream closer to gossamer-light mousse.
At £45 a head for the food it’s objectively a bargain. Even more so given the excellent booze list, highly affable front of house and vibey room, with its irregular central oak table and paintings of ducks. Harlequin’s a brilliantly executed spot. Hell, it might even make south Chelsea a dining destination.
194 Wandsworth Bridge Road
|Transport:||Imperial Wharf rail or Parsons Green tube|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £135.|
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