Time Out says
A Borough branch of the ace steakhouse chain, with a market twist.
Ah, Hawksmoor. What’s to say? You’re either already familiar with this chain of city-best steakhouses – all muscular, wood-lined, leather-flecked interiors and prices as robust as one of Nicky H’s church towers – or you’re not. And if you’re not, you really should be.
The opening of Hawksmoor Borough – located in a former hops and fruit warehouse just off the market – is reason enough for meaty virgins (matron!) to make an inaugural pilgrimage. The menu includes a smattering of Hawksmoor classics, as well as the de rigeur list of beefy cuts struck off a chalkboard as the night progresses, and a typically ace cocktail list. There’s also a few changing market dishes, the chefs pottering off through the hordes of gastro-tourists to pick up what’s good each day.
Steak, therefore, was eschewed – the things we do for journalism, eh? – to explore more interesting morsels. A special of heritage toms on sourdough, laid with silky shavings of spenwood cheese, was a fine mound of quality ingredients; a plate of fat asparagus spears slathered with quivering hollandaise a sexy, simple classic.
For mains, a skillet of salt marsh lamb chops with Poole clams, flecked with parsley and thyme, was a meticulous melding of earthy, buttery flesh – on the bone and perfect pink, the thick ribbons of fat just crisping – and subtle seaside tang. A thick wedge of monkfish was better still, the densely meaty flesh smoky from the charcoal grill, dribbled with butter and given a fragrant kick with the subtle inclusion of dried fennel, oregano and thyme. It was the best bit of fish I’ve snaffled this far from the coast.
Being a worn-in bit of London’s foodie furniture, Hawksmoor might not elicit the gasping thrills it once did. But for near-faultless, wallet-emptying British cooking it’s still top of the pile. Onwards and ever, ever upwards.
16 Winchester Walk
|Transport:||Tube: London Bridge|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £140.|
|Do you own this business?|
London Restaurant Festival: 2 courses & a choice from 3 cocktails £30
From a set menu. Terms and Conditions: Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service. Valid For: 1 - 6 People Sun 6:00PM-9:00PM,Mon-Fri 12:00PM-2:30PM 5:00PM-6:00PM 9:00PM-10:30PM,Sat 12:00PM-4:00PM 5:00PM-6:00PM 9:00PM-10:30PMOffer valid until Oct 31 2019
Users say (6)
Average User Rating
4.5 / 5
- 5 star:3
- 4 star:3
- 3 star:0
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- 1 star:0
The newest branch of Hawksmoor opened 4 weeks ago, located right next to Borough Market. They've done it again...
Hawksmoor is always consistently brilliant, the best steak in London without doubt. It's not cheap, even though it was the soft launch but we still racked up a bill of £80 per head, but we ate and drank like royalty. The venue is spot on, it seemed as if the restaurant had been there for years and every course was delicious. This branch has a "Market Specials" menu with ingredients selected daily from the market. The highlight was dessert for me this time, the maple bacon doughnuts... a "must order" item from the menu!
Very well done Hawksmoor... Once again!
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