Time Out says
The original branch of the famous steakhouse.
The Grand Daddy of upmarket steakhouses, Hawksmoor’s original Spitalfields branch stands gloriously unravaged by the passing of time. Set on industrial-chic Commercial Street (a bit of Shoreditch drunk brunchers haven’t quite ruined yet) – the look inside is masculine without throwing its weight around – with a handsome exposed brick backed bar that makes you want to order one thousand martinis.
Starters were perfect: intense, velvety bone marrow topped with sweet, caramelised onions was served – wobbling exquisitely – in pale hollowed out bones. Blissfully rich, smearing this on toast was messy and wonderful. A pot of dense mackerel paté, by contrast, was fabulously tart, served with dill-flecked pickled onions. A kohlrabi salad of celery hearts too, was sour and fresh.
Hawksmoor is famous for its sides – the menu here features 16 – and some of them were excellent. The Caesar salad featured luxurious lettuce leaves dusted with soft parmesan, crutons, anchovies, and drizzled vinaigrette (no trad Caesar salad dressing here – a ballsy move, but Hawksmoor pulls it off). Others fell short: creamed spinach was salty, and the mac and cheese was dry.
But the real let down was the steak: the fillet came overcooked and ever-so-slightly cold. Things were rescued by soft, white, almost-sweet lobster – but still, underwhelming steak and creamed spinach feels complacent from a steakhouse with Hawksmoor’s devoted-to-the-point-of-evangelical following. Especially as eating here will cost you £100, easily.
Admittedly, the service matches that price-point: the waiter was an absolute pro. Fix that fillet, and Hawksmoor Spitalfields might become one of those national treasures that just get better year-on-year, like ‘Love Island’.
157a Commercial Street
|Transport:||Tube: Liverpool Street|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: £120.|
|Do you own this business?|