Heddon Street Kitchen
Time Out says
The latest big and bustling venture from Gordon Ramsay Holdings offers a culinary experience that can't be accused of being cutting edge.
This latest venture from Gordon Ramsay Holdings is a big and bustling place, similar to their Bread Street Kitchen in The City. The staff are cheerful, the hubbub isn’t too loud, the menu offers something for everyone. So why were we left feeling underwhelmed by the experience?
The room is attractive in a bare-ducts-and-banquette way. The dishes straddle the Atlantic and beyond. Fried Pacific oysters are served in their shells, but balanced on a base of ‘confit’ lemon, fennel and a drizzle of lemon oil. Nicely presented, but a bit heavy-handed on the lemon, which overpowered any other flavours. Hamachi (yellowtail) was similar: the delicate aroma and flavour of the raw fish and seaweed garnish were annihilated by a pungent candied pecan topping.
The main courses were much better, possibly because they were simpler and relied on good ingredients and precise cooking rather than flavour bombs. An English rose-veal chop was of excellent quality, and perfectly grilled. Mutton and potato pie was comfort food, helped along by a high butter content. A bone-marrow sauce was perhaps a little jammy, but other details were good, such as a side dish of nutty brussels sprouts flavoured with bacon lardons.
The wine list has lots of enticing options but few bargains; the cocktails are expertly conceived and crafted – as they should be at well over a tenner each.
With many things to recommend it, why were we not wowed? Mainly because our bill came in on the far side of £120, and the best-rendered dishes were also the least adventurous ones. At this sort of price level, there are plenty of more interesting alternatives.
Gordon Ramsay restaurants seem to have gone from being at the cutting edge (remember Maze in its heyday?), to being the culinary equivalent of listening to BBC Radio 2 – reassuringly familiar, but no innovation to be found.
3-9 Heddon Street
|Transport:||Tube: Oxford Circus|
|Price:||Meal for two with wine and service: around £120.|
|Do you own this business?|
Users say (12)
Average User Rating
4 / 5
- 5 star:5
- 4 star:4
- 3 star:1
- 2 star:2
- 1 star:0
Had a lunch here and overall wasn't impressed. Decor wise it's one of those restaurants that skews toward the nightclub environment - quite dark with hi tempo music in the background. That's not to my personal taste for a Weds lunch but I get that some people will like that and it's not that the place isn't impressive. However, my biggest gripe was with the main..I had a macaroni cheese and brisket beef..the macaroni cheese sauce was runny and oily and the pasta was poorly cooked with the texture similar to that of the dried pasta in a packet. I appreciate this dish is always going to be rich but this was just too sweet for my liking. It was more like a Macaroni and sweet chutney sauce. On a positive note the crispy egg and soldiers for starter was delicious although, again, very rich and the Bloody Mary and service was excellent. The main just wasn't good enough to warrant the pricing in my book and give this a good review.
Fantastic place, great atmosphere. Food is excellent, lots of variety in the menu and the flavours were incredible. I would highly recommend the honey carrots and especially the banana & maple syrup upside down cake!
It's the service that wins the day here though: all the way from the front desk to the bill we were treated like royalty and nothing was too much trouble, the staff and the managers made it a very enjoyable evening. You get exactly what you pay for, and we will definitely be going back.
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