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Henry Root

Restaurants, British Chelsea
2 out of 5 stars
The Henry Root

Time Out says

2 out of 5 stars

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Going by the nom de plume of 1980s satirical writer William Donaldson, the Henry Root struggles to live up to its subversive credentials. The decor might be a happily offbeat melange, with shelves of books and curios and even gilt-framed postcards of risqué Edwardian ladies, but it feels out of step with the strait-laced clientele embroiled in debate about conservatories and London house prices. The small open kitchen at the back seems stretched at peak times, with dishes arriving at unpredictable intervals. And while the menu features staples such as a choice of aged steaks, and, unusually, cottage pie as a special, the cooking didn’t make them shine. A bright starter of fig, walnut, feta and rocket salad proved a slightly meagre helping; barbary duck breast was a touch rubbery and came with disappointingly greasy sarladaise potatoes. Better was the rolled pork belly, though it was overpowered by peppery tarragon mash. Service was polite but haphazard, and while we were indeed tempted by the novelty ‘glugging’ fish water-jug (available to purchase), the awkward up-sell on sides and drinks was unappealingly transparent. Yet the Henry Root is popular, a decent wine list perhaps softening the lack of attention to detail.


Henry Root says
An all-day neighbourhood restaurant nestled between the King's Road and Fulham Road in Chelsea. We serve breakfast and brunch through to lunch and dinner, not to mention great cocktails and an interesting selection of fine wine.



Address: 9 Park Walk
SW10 0AJ
Transport: Tube: Fulham Broadway tube then bus 211, 414
Price: Main courses £12.50-£23. Set meal (noon-7pm Mon-Fri) £12.50 2 courses
Opening hours: Open 8am-11pm Mon-Thu; 8am-midnight Fri; 9am-midnight Sat; 9am-10pm Sun
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