St John in Farringdon has become something of a culinary academy, sending its graduates out across the city to spread the word. Hereford Road is run by one of those nose-to-tail champions – head chef Tom Pemberton has taken his use-every-cut training to this moneyed part of west London. His restaurant makes its intentions clear: the first thing you see upon entering the long, narrow space is the kitchen; if it were any more open you’d be eating off the chefs’ laps. Food takes centre stage here – and what food it is. Sit and wonder how the restaurant can manage to serve two courses for £13 at lunch as you tuck into hearty dishes like devilled duck livers with shallots, brill with roasted cauliflower, or onglet and chips. The slightly fancier à la carte includes the likes of kid’s offal and mash, or lamb rump with purple sprouting broccoli; the most expensive main is still usually less than £17. Down a small flight of stairs is a no-frills dining room, with rather austere wooden furniture (try to bag a booth) and only a large woven mural as ornamentation. Service suits the environment – it’s quietly confident and refreshingly laid-back. A wonderful place.