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Hibiscus (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Haute cuisine Mayfair

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Hibiscus is now closed. Time Out Food & Drink Editors, October 2016.

Chef Claude Bosi opened a gastropub in Fulham in 2012 to go with his other one in Wimbledon, but he clearly hasn’t taken his eye off this flagship restaurant. There’s no à la carte (unless you really want it), so choose three, six or eight courses – and marvel, as the extraordinarily composed dishes arrive on your table with military timing.

On a ‘Taste of Spring’ menu, almost everything included a potentially unusual combination of fruit/savoury flavours – a single spear of grilled asparagus with confit orange and black truffle purée as a starter; scallop sharpened with pink grapefruit gel; gariguette strawberries topped with celeriac foam. Some of the pairings tend towards the experimental; it takes a few mouthfuls to convince yourself that morels with kaffir lime, coffee and tarragon actually works. But it does – as does everything else in this often vividly exciting restaurant.

Even the unobtrusively adept service is far from buttoned-up. The impressive wine list is big on biodynamic and natural expressions, but there’s a house wine at £6 a glass, meaning lunch (with its reasonably priced offerings) needn’t be as expensive a prospect as dinner inevitably is.

 

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Address: 29 Maddox Street
London
W1S 2PA
Transport: Tube: Oxford Circus
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