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Ground is the street-level space (well, obvs) of super-chef Ollie Dabbous’s Michelin-starred restaurant-and-bar complex Hide. Here, the menu is à la carte. And the look is the inverse of Above. It’s still sleek and designer-y, but it’s also three times the size, and has a distinctly masculine vibe: think man cave meets hotel brasserie. Again, the walls are floor-to-ceiling glass, meaning you can people-watch the punters of Piccadilly (though they can also gawp at you as they wander past).
The food is every bit as divine. And still comes with a spot of theatre, like nitro-frozen scallop tartare served over eucalyptus leaves in a swirling mist of dry ice. This, and a crisp-edged crab tartlet, proved a pair of unimpeachable starters. Lamb came served three ways and with a pour-at-the-table caper-spiked jus so good you’ll want to drink it from the jug. Do not miss the warm, buttery acorn cake, baked in a teeny pot, which comes with a choose-your-own-booze for pouring.
The staff, meanwhile, are chatty and charming. They’re just as savvy as upstairs, just a tad more lovable. It’s only on value for money it’s a let-down. Portions are small, so before you know it, your bill will be huge. Overall, it’s less of a special occasion spot than Above, though a tad more flexible.