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Restaurants, Mediterranean Chinatown
2 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

2 out of 5 stars

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An upmarket Greek fusion restaurant in Soho.

Hovarda is a good place to go if you want your date to think you’re loaded. A spectacularly plush Greek fusion restaurant in Soho, there are glittering glass cabinets full of ouzo, marble countertops heaving with fresh fruit and lots of arty wall tiling in glistening sea-green. It’s all gorgeous: luxe without being flashy. Sadly, the same cannot be said for the food.

Everything I tried was unremarkable, and most of it was overpriced. Worst was a plate of artichokes (for £11!) that tasted like they’d come out of a supermarket jar, and a dish of oily marinated prawns. Crab borek was also greasy and the sea bream strangely sweet. The only dishes worth ordering were lovely warm courgette fritters and a Greek salad. But who can’t make a Greek salad?

Next Big Problem: the service – my waiter was almost threatening in his quest to get me to order a £25 main, and they charged me an extra £2 for pita to dip in my tzatziki, without any warning. And then refused to take it off the bill. Bear in mind Hovarda is not cheap: at these prices, it would be nice to feel like you’re being looked after, not shafted.

So, go if you want to sit in a nice room and feel posh for an evening. But not if you really care about food.

By: Kitty Drake



Address: 36-40 Rupert Street
Transport: Tube: Piccadilly Circus
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £110.
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