Forget liking it hot: Indian Accent is for those of you who like it swish. And I mean Mayfair swish. Multiple shiny-haired hostesses greet you on arrival. The dining room reminds me of the international hotels of the Raj: expensively decorated, with dark woods, opulent marble and smoky mirrors on the ceiling. Plus caramel-toned lighting, piano music and crisp air-conditioning. I’m the only diner not in a suit, but the welcome is no less professional, or genial. ‘How was your day?’ asks the smiling waiter, looking like he actually means it.
The swanky-pants setting is matched by food that’s as high-end as Indian gets. It’s creative. It’s pretty. And yes it’s pricy. There’s a tasting menu (obvs) and a couple of incredible amuse-bouches (aka freebies), though you can get all the best bits on the £55 set menu.
Like insanely tender pork ribs, marinated in a slick of knobbly pickled mango, with syrupy, salty, fiery notes, plus slivers of sundried mango and onion seed on top. Or a pot of shredded lamb, which they slow-roast in ghee (clarified butter) and serve alongside dinky roti pancakes and batons of cucumber and radish. I know what you’re thinking: it’s like duck with pancakes. You’re absolutely right. Earlier, there had been a stunner of a starter: soft, tangy morels with a creamy ’shroom sauce and a parmesan crisp. Later: a creamy, simple, sigh-inducing black dal.
So: it’s ace. Just hope someone else is paying.