Island Grill

Being located between two busy main roads isn’t ideal, but Island has the calm of an oasis, providing you don’t sit by the window watching the traffic pass. The interior is decked out in shades of wood veneer and silver, with purple banquettes and cushioned seating. A view of chefs at work in the kitchen offers some entertainment, but otherwise there’s little memorable about the surroundings. Service can be slow at times. If you’re in the area, this would be a good option for decently prepared food, particularly at lunchtime when a set menu is offered alongside the rather pricey carte. Grills, pastas and other please-all dishes are available. Beef carpaccio was seared before being thinly sliced and dressed with balsamic vinegar, truffle oil and rocket. The portion was small for the price but delicious. Mains of beef burger with trimmings and battered pollack were good. Both dishes came with crunchy thick-cut chips, but were let down by relish and tartare sauces that tasted bland and shop-bought. For pudding, baked alaska was a bit heavy on meringue but otherwise sweet, hot, cold and lovely.