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A Putney restaurant dedicated to the food of Kashmir.
There used to be an Indian restaurant half way down Lacy Road that served the community faithfully: neighbourhood families early on Friday and Saturday evenings, and the slightly inebriated from the ever-popular Coat and Badge across the road, for a madras and their last pint of the night. An archetypal London curry house.
The site is still there, but much changed. Bright and modern, there’s a warm chatter in the air, thanks to ladies-who-no-longer-lunch-but-meet-early-evening, and couples catching up with other couples.
Don’t expect vindaloos or jalfrezis: true to their promise, the dishes are only those from cool, nothern Kashmir. They’re mild, heavy on fruit, nuts and cheese, reliant on herbs and dry spices for their exquisite flavour. Presentation is a bit muddled though: murgh lababdar (a sweet and creamy curry with tender chicken) and tiny-portioned vegetarian ‘mains’ turn up in ornate brass bowls, whilst onion bhaji slivers arrive in a tin bucket usually reserved for gastropub chips. Galouti kebabs, flattened balls of heavy-on-the-cardamom minced lamb, come on slates. Service consisted of a young chap smiling, pointing and bowing whilst not actually taking our order: eventually an older, more experienced member of the team was forced to take over. A source of amusement on our not-so-busy early midweek, maybe not so at more frenetic times. The bill can easily creep up, too. But know before you go that this isn’t your average curry joint and you’re in for a treat.
18 Lacy Rd
|Transport:||Tube: Putney Bridge|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £70.|
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