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Kentish Canteen (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Global Kentish Town

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Kentish Canteen is now closed. Time Out Food editors.

A spacious spot, the Canteen has big picture windows, a Kentish Town-themed mural on one wall and brasserie-style seating covered in faux-leather. The menu leaps around a bit, from dips and fish and chips to ambitious-sounding mains (braised beef cheeks with polenta and thyme jus), to pub-grub fare such as spicy buffalo chicken wings with blue cheese dip.

To start, ‘salt ’n’ pepper squid’ had a softly spicy coating and chilli jam added a pleasant edge; pumpkin ravioli was pleasantly smooth and well cooked. But a main of poached bream and saffron bisque was a serious misfire: everything was almost taste-free – the lacklustre fish sat in a heavy, bland bisque (despite chilli flakes) with mushy prawns and mussels. It was served with ‘croutons’ that were actually slices of fried baguette. A less ambitious dish, steak frites, was OK. Brunch and lunchmight be a safer bet, when burgers, egg dishes and baked goods are joined by a selection of salads which many regulars regard as the best things on the menu. They're often displayed on the front counter along with a selection of baked goods which are uniformly good. 

In its favour, we liked the fact that the Canteen attracts a mixed bag of diners (families, couples, work groups) for everything from drinks to a full meal. A useful place if you live locally, with friendly staff adding to the appeal.

 

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Details

Address: 300 Kentish Town Road
London
NW5 2TG
Transport: Tube: Kentish Town
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