[title]
On the stretch of Portobello where tourists taper off and the vibe takes a grittier turn sits this inauthentic (in a good way) Mexican hole-in-the-wall, coaxing you inside with three magical promises printed on its awning: ‘Burritos Tacos Cocktails’. Inside, you’ll find neon signage and industrial walls wrapped in punchy murals looking like a freshly inked sleeve. The ’90s hip hop is loud, service is chill and responsive, and prices are reasonable.
Drinks-wise, the Tommy’s Margarita was a perfect merger of salty, tangy and sweet, and there are also indie American beers (like the 10% Lawyers, Guns & Money ale), plus a decent selection of tequilas and mezcals. But let’s talk about their tacos. With culture-clashing options like cheese steak, Korean sticky fried chicken (order this) and cheeseburger (this too), these are not your abuela’s recipes.
The Korean chicken was literally finger-licking good, with a kapow! of smoky spice, lifted by blades of crisp green onion and the snap of black sesame seeds. It’s a shame that the burritos packed precisely none of that creative punch (and some sad, unripe guac to boot).
Spiciness is subjective, but there’s a homemade hot sauce for everyone here, starting with the most innocuous, Mild Is For Wimps. But even the hottest (dubbed Death Sauce IV) had character behind it, not just melt-your-face-off heat. Why? ‘Because we’re not dickheads’, says the waitress. Bonus points for that.