A very large, low-lit Korean restaurant on newly developed Pancras Square, this branch of Kimchee is sleek without being imposing. A water feature tinkles away gently at the entrance and the loos are posh, but it feels a bit corporate. Prices are mid-range, there’s Ibiza-day-lounge-style music and you sit at wooden latticed sharing tables. Wooden latticing is a big thing here.
The food started off exceptionally well, with a lovely deep bowl of beef rib and cabbage soup (ugeoji galbitang): spicy, satisfying and topped with spring onion. A dish of crisp-edged eggy tofu, stir-fried with pork and topped with kimchee was also fantastic. Greasy, thick udon topped with crispy fried chicken was another highlight.
Other dishes were less impressive. A single chargrilled king prawn arrived a bit cold and was a bit boring, really. My mul naengmyeon buckwheat noodles were overly sweet, too.
King’s Cross isn’t exactly foodie nirvana, so do go if you’re in the area, but order wisely. The perfect lunch would be the aforementioned soup and tofu. And it would only cost you about £16. Not bad for a place with posh loos.