Small in size, large in quality: Indian small plates and cocktails in Pop Brixton. You'll have a ball at Kricket.
Newly opened Kricket is a pint-sized set-up, located with other fledgling food and drink businesses in the pile-up of converted shipping containers that is Pop Brixton. It serves up British-Indian small plates – stylish and seasonal spins on street food from the hand of Will Bowlby, a former chef at big-hitting modern Indian The Cinnamon Club in Westminster, who now runs the kitchen at this tiny eatery with only two communal tables.
Pakoras are given a fashionable makeover with briny samphire cloaked in crisp gram-flour batter, and finished with a drizzle of date and tamarind sauce – a marvellous marriage of British produce and Indian sensibility. Another lively number partnered chilli-steeped and buttermilk-fried chicken with pickled mooli and curried mayo – a playful riff on mum’s coronation chicken dressing.
We weren’t so hot on the vindaloo bavette, though. Having hoped for a Goan spice riot cut through with vinegary punches, what we got was a beautifully cooked steak, let down by the briefest of flirtations with toasted peppercorns, cloves and coriander. This was one modernist expression that needed a rethink.
Thankfully, a pair of thick turmeric-hued lamb chops with a marinade of gingery lime juice and smoky dried lichen (not as weird as it sounds) got us back on track. Juicy, meaty and citrussy, they worked a treat with the cooling notes of cucumber and pomegranate raita.
Service is spot-on, and splendid spice-infused cocktails deliver more of a kick than masala chai could ever do. There’s more happening on the plates at this down-to-earth venue than in a Bollywood potboiler.
49 Brixton Station Road
|Opening hours:||Mon-Thur noon-3pm, 5-11pm: Fri-Sat noon-midnight.|
|Price:||Meal for two with drinks and service: £50.|
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Average User Rating
4.8 / 5
- 5 star:13
- 4 star:3
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
The best restaurant about, not just in Brixton but in London. Inspiringly creative food with flavour combination that will blow your taste buds away.
Been here a few times - not surprising as the Chef is my son. But I come back each time for the food (Always happy to see him as well but he's usually in the kitchen) which is always the best - inventive, delicous and moreish. And the 'specials' are just that. Love the people who work with him, and the whole 'difference' of the place. This place is all about the love of food. Looking forward to the new opening in Soho at the end of the year. So there you have it, another 5* review although biased! But most other food bloggers/critics seem to agree with me..
Pretty good interesting food and like the concept! Love what's happening in all the lesser known parts of London with good food everywhere now, not just central.