Kricket

Restaurants, Indian Brixton
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • 5 out of 5 stars
(17user reviews)
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Small in size, large in quality: Indian small plates and cocktails in Pop Brixton. You'll have a ball at Kricket.

Newly opened Kricket is a pint-sized set-up, located with other fledgling food and drink businesses in the pile-up of converted shipping containers that is Pop Brixton. It serves up British-Indian small plates – stylish and seasonal spins on street food from the hand of Will Bowlby, a former chef at big-hitting modern Indian The Cinnamon Club in Westminster, who now runs the kitchen at this tiny eatery with only two communal tables.

Pakoras are given a fashionable makeover with briny samphire cloaked in crisp gram-flour batter, and finished with a drizzle of date and tamarind sauce – a marvellous marriage of British produce and Indian sensibility. Another lively number partnered chilli-steeped and buttermilk-fried chicken with pickled mooli and curried mayo – a playful riff on mum’s coronation chicken dressing. 

We weren’t so hot on the vindaloo bavette, though. Having hoped for a Goan spice riot cut through with vinegary punches, what we got was a beautifully cooked steak, let down by the briefest of flirtations with toasted peppercorns, cloves and coriander. This was one modernist expression that needed a rethink. 

Thankfully, a pair of thick turmeric-hued lamb chops with a marinade of gingery lime juice and smoky dried lichen (not as weird as it sounds) got us back on track. Juicy, meaty and citrussy, they worked a treat with the cooling notes of cucumber and pomegranate raita.

Service is spot-on, and splendid spice-infused cocktails deliver more of a kick than masala chai could ever do. There’s more happening on the plates at this down-to-earth venue than in a Bollywood potboiler.

By: Roopa Gulati

Posted:

Venue name: Kricket
Contact:
Address: POP Brixton
49 Brixton Station Road
London
SW9 8PQ
Opening hours: Mon-Thur noon-3pm, 5-11pm: Fri-Sat noon-midnight.
Transport: Tube: Brixton
Price: Meal for two with drinks and service: £50.
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Average User Rating

4.8 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:13
  • 4 star:3
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|17
2 people listening
Camilla S
1 of 1 found helpful

The best restaurant about, not just in Brixton but in London. Inspiringly creative food with flavour combination that will blow your taste buds away.

LUCY S
1 of 1 found helpful

Amazing food, fantastic cocktails, great staff, a perfect food experience, love it!

Nicholas B
1 of 1 found helpful

Been here a few times - not surprising as the Chef is my son. But I come back each time for the food (Always happy to see him as well but he's usually in the kitchen) which is always the best - inventive, delicous and moreish. And the 'specials' are just that. Love the people who work with him, and the whole 'difference' of the place. This place is all about the love of food. Looking forward to the new opening in Soho at the end of the year. So there you have it, another 5* review although biased!  But most other food bloggers/critics seem to agree with me..

Lucy H

Pretty good interesting food and like the concept! Love what's happening in all the lesser known parts of London with good food everywhere now, not just central. 

Kitty F

Innovative and delicious food, great style and character in every dish. Love the concept!

Laura Richards
Staff Writer

Stunning small plates – from brunch right through to late-night dinner – ideal for sharing with pals. Warm staff, spicy food, punchy cocktails and a super cool Pop Brixton setting make Kricket a reliable destination for a relaxed, cool catch-up.

Ruth J
Tastemaker

The best Indian small plates around. The lamb is melt in your mouth and the atmosphere at the top of Pop Brixton on the weekends compliments it perfectly!

Louise H
Tastemaker

The first thing to know about Kricket is that it definitely is in POP Brixton- you just have to find it! POP Brixton is a load of ship containers, that naturally have been turned into a pop-up housing a mix of restaurants, bars and shops. It's a fun concept, though less appealing in winter when it can be pretty cold. Luckily Kricket is nice and warm, which definitely makes the experience more enjoyable. The restaurant is teeny tiny (around 30 people), and they don't take bookings. Food is served tapas style, with small plates of Indian inspired food. Upon sitting down the people next to us were finishing up and remarked to the waitress that it was the best meal they'd eaten in London for ages. Enthusiastically we placed our order, of fried chicken with curry leaf mayonnaise, aubergine with coconut, sweet potato with labneh, and samphire pakoras with garlic mayo. Everything was delicious, in particular the chicken which was cooked to perfection. I also had a pineapple/vodka/chill/coriander cocktail, which packed quite a chilli kick! One downside to the size of this restaurant is it gets very noisy, and we ended up practically shouting at each other to be heard. Because of that I wouldn't go back here at peak time, but the food is really good so I hope to return.