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An Italian restaurant from Petersham Nurseries.
An Italian job from London’s floweriest restaurant group, Petersham Nurseries, La Goccia looks out onto a lovely sun-dappled courtyard in Covent Garden. Unless it’s pouring, ask for a seat out there. The original Petersham, on the outskirts of Richmond, is so ebulliently verdant it borders a meadow. In comparison, Floral Court – featuring a deli, two restaurants and a flower shop from the group – feels a little corporate. But still, there are trees, and flowers, and tiny potted plants on all the tables. And we are in central London.
La Goccia is relatively inexpensive (the same cannot be said for the main restaurant, The Petersham, next door). A highlight was subtle wild mushroom ‘lasagnette’ – basically tagliatelle, served up with wonderfully rustic ugliness, for £12.50. Also excellent was the spicy nduja pizzette. Best of all, though, was a beautiful, moreish snack from the fritti section: anchovy delicately sandwiched between two fragrant sage leaves, then deep fried. Sitting outside eating these with a glass of wine does the same thing for your mental health as a two-week holiday in Tuscany.
Other dishes were disappointing. Lamb ragu was salty, one-note, courgette flowers were greasy and the beef desperately needed a condiment. Also, La Goccia is large and brown and corporate inside. With not nearly enough flowers. So in conclusion: go, weather permitting, but order carefully.
|Transport:||Tube: Covent Garden|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £75.|
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