La Poule au Pot
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An old-school, rustic French institution in Belgravia.
It’s hard to understate how insanely Gallic La Poule au Pot truly is. The whole place has been festooned with peasanty baskets of dried foliage, wax-covered candlesticks and rickety brasserie furniture. That said, it’s atmospheric as hell and very much a local joint, with the kind of stratospheric pricing in-tune with the Belgravia postcode.
The cooking was mostly very good. The best came first: a starter of scallops, pan-fried and doused with a wicked anise-spiked butter that I’d have drunk by the mugful. It was followed by a beautifully textured foie gras terrine – served with an almost inedibly boozy sauternes jelly – and a decent beef bourguignon, the meat slow-braised into sticky, lardon-studded fireside food.
Less successful was a slab of dover sole, the yielding flesh drowned in a lemon butter sauce redolent of citrus-spiked chicken Bisto. Desserts were fine: a chocolate mousse was light and aerated; bananas à sa façon (that is, split and braised) arrived richly caramel-soaked.
It was all wilfully, gloriously old-school. But at this cost – the scallops were £15.50; the sole £34 – dining at La Poule remains a rarefied experience for those with, er, pots of cash.
231 Ebury St
|Transport:||Tube: Sloane Square|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £165.|
|Do you own this business?|