L'Autre Pied (CLOSED)
Time Out says
Please note, L'Autre Pied has now closed. Time Out Food editors.
What it lacks in elbow room and statement design, L’Autre Pied makes up for with precision fine dining – the kind that makes you stop mid-conversation to murmur appreciative ahs and mmms.
Andy McFadden’s menu at this bijou version of sister restaurant Pied à Terre conjures up dainty yet intense dishes, at more accessible prices than its grown-up sibling (especially good value are the set menus). A riot of ingredients is packed into every mouthful, so a starter of beetroot risotto brought goat’s cheese, tapioca, ras el hanout and a micro hit of balsamic into the fray.
Mains are likewise accomplished balancing acts: a poached duck egg served with asparagus, tomato, onion seeds and crab bisque was the simplest dish on offer. Haunch of roe deer had a satisfyingly sweet counterpoint, courtesy of tea-marinated prunes.
In short, you need to like a certain level of complexity to get the most out of L’Autre Pied. And while the culinary artistry does the talking, the decor takes a back seat. A kind of modest chinoiserie punctuated by rosewood tables free of starched tablecloths, it lends itself to a casualness not usually associated with such consummate cooking.
5-7 Blandford Street
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