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Lobster Kitchen (CLOSED)

Restaurants, American Bloomsbury

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Lobster Kitchen is now closed. Time Out Eating & Drinking editors, Sep 2016.

It’s looks like a pop-up. It feels like a pop-up. Yet it’s priced like a restaurant. Inspired by the charm of New England’s lobster shacks, the duo behind this ‘Noho’ newbie have opened one in London. And in many ways, they’ve done it well. The smallish space has faux-rustic good looks, with lobster cages and buoys dangling from the ceiling, and rough-hewn wood for the tables. But, while no-one would expect ludicrously cheap Maine lobster prices in London, what Londoners do expect is decent value. This is where Lobster Kitchen falls down. Given the fast-food feel and lack of creature comforts (backless stools, ordering at a counter, plastic cutlery, an extractor fan that didn’t seem to work), it was, as an experience, just too dear.

Some dishes were fine: our lobster Thermidor tails saw the juicy, good-quality flesh of two small tails covered with a nicely tangy version of the retro egg-yolk sauce, then grilled (£17, no sides). The bread used in our ‘naked’ lobster roll was just so; the filling, though a touch scrappy, had a nice lemony zing (£15, no sides).

Other dishes were notably disappointing. ‘Shoe-string’ fries (way too thick for the name) were soft and flabby, while a side of minuscule deep-fried clam pieces, though moreish (in the way that a battered box of bugs might be), cost a whopping £7.50.

Then there’s an incredibly cheeky 12.5 percent service charge added at the till (before you’ve even sat down and experienced the service).

There are deals to be had here – the creamy lobster mac and cheese can be upgraded to a main course (from £5.50 to £9.50); or if you order a lobster roll with a side and soft drink, you can get the lot for £19. But once you’re in that kind of price range, wouldn’t you just rather go to Burger & Lobster? 

By: Tania Ballantine

Posted:

Details

Address: 111 Great Russell Street
London
WC1B 3NQ
Transport: Tube: Tottenham Court Road
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