Lockhouse

Burgers-and-booze joint Lockhouse occupies a neat spot, looking over the water on the edge of Paddington Basin. It’s bright and industrial, all glass, corrugated iron, bleached wood and poured concrete.

The menu is made up of standard grub. There’s nothing especially surprising – burgers loaded with bacon, cheese and relish, rotisserie chicken and chips – but portions are generous and wallet-friendly. The Lock ’n’ Blue was a chunky and well seasoned patty, topped with dolcelatte and served with a big basket of crispy sweet-potato fries. The Lockhouse beet salad was a lighter option: handfuls of fresh leaves, beetroot, radishes and pea shoots served in a mason jar and topped with a pile of goat’s cheese and hazelnuts.

The simple puddings come in jam jars. They are sizeable, indulgent and hit the sweet spot. The Lockabockaglory – brownies, meringue and cream – is pure comfort food. My companion ordered a sugary, moreish hybrid of lemon meringue pie and Eton mess.

Lockhouse was loud and busy on a Wednesday night – clearly popular with a professional crowd taking advantage of the happy hour(s), craft brews and feelgood soundtrack. It’s simple stuff, done well.