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Lord Palmerston

Restaurants, Gastropubs Tufnell Park
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Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

This Dartmouth Hill fixture was recently spruced up, with pre-publicity offering a bewildering array of attractions, from cinema room to barber, in-pub deli to bread-making classes. First impressions banish any misgivings: this is still a very likeable pub, busy but well marshalled by smiley, sharp-witted staff. There’s a good range of ales (an excellently hoppy Redemption Big Chief the pick), a solid wine list and decor that combines modern retro whimsy (top-hat Victorians and fighter planes, deer skull, Union Jack) with traditional pub comfort (chandeliers, fireplaces).

From the blackboard menu, ‘smoked potato terrine, poached duck egg’ was a real hit: a peppery millefeuille of potato with perfectly runny egg and watercress – direct, handsomely presented and full of flavour. Gnocchi with roast squash and lemon butter was also good, if light on the chilli. After that, though, things went astray: fridge-cold beetroot with goat’s curd and watercress was complicated by an over-sweet walnut praline; warm pigeon breast salad suffered from too few of the ‘bitter leaves’ and flavourless crackling. Still, the events show a pub focused on returning to the heart of its community – and when the sun shines, the beer garden will help too.

 

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Details

Address: 33 Dartmouth Park Hill
London
NW5 1HU
Transport: Tube: Tufnell Park
Contact:
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