This Dartmouth Hill fixture was recently spruced up, with pre-publicity offering a bewildering array of attractions, from cinema room to barber, in-pub deli to bread-making classes. First impressions banish any misgivings: this is still a very likeable pub, busy but well marshalled by smiley, sharp-witted staff. There’s a good range of ales (an excellently hoppy Redemption Big Chief the pick), a solid wine list and decor that combines modern retro whimsy (top-hat Victorians and fighter planes, deer skull, Union Jack) with traditional pub comfort (chandeliers, fireplaces).
From the blackboard menu, ‘smoked potato terrine, poached duck egg’ was a real hit: a peppery millefeuille of potato with perfectly runny egg and watercress – direct, handsomely presented and full of flavour. Gnocchi with roast squash and lemon butter was also good, if light on the chilli. After that, though, things went astray: fridge-cold beetroot with goat’s curd and watercress was complicated by an over-sweet walnut praline; warm pigeon breast salad suffered from too few of the ‘bitter leaves’ and flavourless crackling. Still, the events show a pub focused on returning to the heart of its community – and when the sun shines, the beer garden will help too.
|Venue name:||Lord Palmerston||Contact:|
33 Dartmouth Park Hill
|Opening hours:||Mon-Sat noon-11pm (lunch noon-3pm, dinner 6-10pm). Sun noon-11pm (food served noon-9pm)|
|Transport:||Tube: Tufnell Park|
|Price:||Main courses £10.50-£18. Set meal (lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon) £14 2 courses, £18 3 courses|
|Do you own this business?|