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Lutyens Grill

  • Restaurants
  • Bank
  • price 4 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

A self-contained steakhouse within The Ned’s ground floor dining hall.

Previously members only, this steakhouse at The Ned is now officially open to the public – but it still feels exclusive. It’s set in a room at the far end of the ground floor’s cavernous ex-banking hall, which on the night of my visit was Gatsby-esque: spilling-over bars and restaurants, shrieks of laughter, sloshing glasses held high, arms around shoulders and, at one end, a live band on a circular podium.

Lutyens Grill used to be the bank manager’s office; it was almost surreal how serene it became once the door closed. It has the feel of an upmarket New York steakhouse – all wood, glass and white tablecloths – while imperceptible staff patrol placidly, refreshing glasses with the swift and gentle hand movements of magicians.

And the food? For starters, Orkney scallops (£15) were perfectly cooked while shrimp cocktail (£16) was chock-full of meatiness and came lightly coated in a Marie Rose sauce with just the faintest hint of horseradish. The top-quality steak is the reason to come, but prices are high: rump for £28, sirloin £36, fillet £42, rib-eye £45 … and you don’t even want to know about the Japanese wagyu. Sauces are gratis; the chimichurri was advertised as ‘very spicy’ but turned up without a trace of heat. No matter, the Bordelaise was so distractingly deep, rich and meaty it was impossible to leave alone.

Bottles of wine start at £34, but again, you guessed it, you can easily get something for a hundred times that amount too. The bill will tell you that you’ve been overly decadent no matter what, but you can’t say you weren’t warned when you walked in.

Written by
Dave Faulkner


The Ned
27 Poultry
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Tube: Bank
Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £200
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