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  • Fitzrovia
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Review

Mac & Wild (CLOSED)

4 out of 5 stars
Venison is the star at this Fitzrovia deer-fest.
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Time Out says

Veniphobia. It’s not an official phobia, like arachnophobia, agoraphobia or my personal favourite, omphalophobia (the fear of belly buttons). But it should be. We all know someone who suffers from it: an irrational fear of venison.
 
Mac & Wild is the cure. A cosy Fitzrovia newcomer with a Scottish heart, it specialises in wild deer that has none of the off-putting ‘gaminess’ people associate with venison -- it also happens to be mind-bogglingly tender. Most of the meat comes from co-owner Andy Waugh’s father’s estate, the rest from other trusted highland hunters, all of whom use state-of-the-art refrigeration techniques. On our visit we watched a waiter convince a table of fashionistas to go for venison, rather than beef chateaubriand: ‘if you don’t like it, I’ll take it off the bill.’ They devoured every morsel. 
 
Mac & Wild’s origins date back to 2010, when Waugh drove down to Borough Market with a van-load of raw deer meat. This led to him selling venison-based street food (as ‘The Wild Game Co’) at markets and pub residencies, before finally opening a 2014 pop-up. It was so popular that within weeks Waugh and his team were looking for a permanent site. 
 
The result: Mac & Wild, a stylish place filled with rough-hewn wood tables, bare bricks, and modish lighting. The Scandi-leaning Scottish food it serves (the chef is Danish) is mostly sensational. In addition to terrific venison ‘steak frites’ (£11) and order-by-weight chateaubriand, there are beefy alternatives and other wild things: a giant pine mushroom, cleaved in two; a grilled mackerel, served cold with a sticky soy sauce and parsley ash-coated cucumber balls. Best of the all was the ‘venimoo’ (£10): a double patty (one venison and one beef, as the game on its own would be too lean), melted cheese and pickles in a sesame bun. 
 
Only our desserts – an under-boozed cranachan, and three cloying chocolate teacakes – disappointed. But service was exceptional and the ambiance lively. Grab your nearest veniphobe and get them into rehab.


Details

Address
65 Great Titchfield Street
London
W1W 7PS
Transport:
Tube: Oxford Circus
Price:
Meal for two with drinks and service: around £70.
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri noon-3.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm, Sat 11am-4pm, 6.30pm-11pm, Sun 11am-4pm.
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